Comments

1. 
   wilsonketinc | Jan 07, 2020 05:11pm | #1

   Mike, love the trim router trick. I will use in front of people and pretend like I came up with it

2. 
   Colbi_Stowers | Jan 07, 2020 06:57pm | #2

   I'm addicted to this. Amazing job to everyone involved.

3. 
   DaveRichards | Jan 07, 2020 11:24pm | #3

   I was half expecting Tage Frid's dovetail hammer to come out there near the end. :)

4. 
   Sharper802 | Jan 09, 2020 01:53am | #4

   Another great video. One of the other benefits of using the router to clean the base of the pin board is it avoids the potential for the end-grain wood to break or chip out as it is chiseled. It's more of an issue in soft woods but if you chisel to far in from one side you can tear the end grain even in hard woods. The end grain is not critical for the structural integrity of the joint, but if it is close enough to the surface when you plane the joint after glue-up, it could expose a gap.
5. 
   Jamie_GM | Jan 11, 2020 09:46am | #5

   Mike,
   First, thanks so much for doing this video workshop. It's such a wonderful compilation of your work and techniques from over the years.

   This is a really minor detail, but I was wondering how you set the router bit depth. Did you just eyeball it?
   Best,
   Jim

1. FWW Editor
   BenStrano | Jan 13, 2020 09:10am | #7

   I believe it is. Once that depth is set, don't THINK about changing it since it applies to all of the case joinery.

6. 
   ChipSawdust | Jan 12, 2020 09:48am | #6

   Jim, when I set my depths if I have a test piece I’ll go to that first. If not, the only way to do it is to eyeball it. Start a tad high with the bit then work your way incrementally to your depth.

7. 
   Jamie_GM | Jan 13, 2020 07:03pm | #8

   Thanks.

   It just kinda killed me that when Mike started routing, his bit hit the scribe line just perfectly. Beautiful.

   Best,
   Jim

8. 
   user-3270788 | Jan 17, 2020 06:22pm | #9

   Does that flush bit have an extension above bit? curious about the bit that was used.

9. 
   user-6177180 | Jan 21, 2020 11:27pm | #10

   Mike, just fantastic video! Your work habits represents such sophisticated techniques and sensibility, and everything is so clear. And the wonderful freedom of your suggestions about where perfection is not the end all. Your presentation of woodworking philosophy and practical hints is unmatched. Thank you! Where can one attend your classes these days?

10. 
    Trocket | Jan 31, 2020 12:01pm | #11

    Thrilled to see another full video series, and the depth of knowledge shared here is fantastic. Thanks Mike (and Ben) for making this happen. Taking away a lot of ideas to try.

11. 
    Heinmadegoods | Mar 11, 2020 11:07am | #12

    This is so awesome! I made a box with dovetails that I was really proud of but when I cut off the lid I exposed a bunch of crushed endgrain that looked terrible. This would have eliminated that! Do you worry at all about blowing out the unsupported backside of the baseline?

12. 
    maguiredan | Aug 27, 2020 12:30pm | #13

    I've watched this series of dovetail videos 4 times! Every time I learn more. My dovetail joints are improving all the time using your techniques. Thanks for a fantastic learning experience, Mike.

13. 
    cmascolo | May 30, 2021 03:11pm | #14

    Question for Mike: what brand apron are you using?

14. 
    bobaluke | Jul 14, 2021 11:21pm | #15

    Hi Michael. Really liked this video series. However I have a question on chisels. There is a bunch out there with not much information on them. I have a set of old Marples, and they have been good chisels, however I would like to get some Japanese chisels. Is there one over the other that you would suggest? Please let me know your input. Sorry to bug, you probably get so many emails you couldn't respond even if you wanted too. Any-who, if you do get this and have some input, it would be greatly appreciated your input.
    Thanks,