Question 1: 

From Curtis:
I need a new shop apron. I’ve been using a leather apron that is too small. I like the one Mike Pekovich is wearing on the Hanging Wall Cabinet video. It has pencil holders and pockets and seems well organized.  Can you recommend good shop aprons?

Apron companies mentioned:

Texas Heritage Aprons
Dragonfly Aprons

A Woodworker’s Apron By Steve Latta #153–Tools & Shops 2002 Issue Keeping essential tools within reach makes you a more efficient woodworker

Question 2:

From Robert:
There is often a recommendation to run boards through the planer at a slight angle, in order to produce a shearing cut.  It seems to me that, since the rollers and blades remain at the same angle to each other, all this accomplishes is producing angled planer marks, rather than improving the cut by shearing.  It seems fundamentally different than angling a handheld plane, which does change the angle of the blade relative to the angle of attack. So, does feeding stock through the planer at an angle really do anything?

	Handplane blade angles By Lyn J. Mangiameli #186–Sept/Oct 2006 Issue Vary the angle of attack to ensure success on a wide range of woods
	Get better cuts with your planer By Jerry Forshee #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Eliminate tearout, banish snipe, and get smooth results every time

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool

Ben – His new shop-pencil, the Blackwing 602

Barry – His Sterling dovetail square

Mike – His Lie-Nielsen apron plane

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Question 3:

From Simon:

I recently bought a house, so I have room to finally have a shop. There are some 1950’s era power tools at a relative’s house up for grabs. A Shopmaster band saw, table saw, jointer. A craftsman Dunlap shaper, a craftsman lathe. Also a mounted belt sander (unsure on brand) and a stone grinding wheel. With the machines there are a few motors to power them. A few of the motors were set up so one could power multiple tools (sander/band saw, table saw/jointer) just by changing the belt from one pulley to another.  These were my grandfathers and great grandfathers tools, so there is some sentimental value to them. The last time I powered them on was 15 years ago. As far as I know they have been in a somewhat temperature controlled basement since the 50’s. Would it be worth fixing up and chasing down parts for these tools? Are they safe and efficient enough to use, or would it be more frustrating and dangerous than it is worth? Would I be doing these antiques more damage than good by having them in a Minnesota garage that’s not heated or cooled? I don’t have enough money to get each type of tool new, but refurbishing old ones just to have them break or not work efficiently seems like it might be a waste of money. Do you see older tools like these being used in shops? 

 

Question 4:  

From Ray:
I want to start pre-finishing before assembly. I use a water-based clear coat (for example General Finishes High Performance Gloss) and I’m pretty sloppy. I use a PVA type glue (for example Titebond III). If I assemble within 24 h of pre-finishing (so that the topcoat is dried but not cured), will the strength of the glue joint be affected? I feel like it shouldn’t because both the finish and the glue are water based, but I’m not certain.

Finish While You Build By Charles Neil #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue Pre-finish parts and then control squeeze-out for a fast, flawless finish

Recommendations: 

Ben: Mark Rober and Smart Every Day on YouTube

Barry: Jean Toomer’s Cane

Mike: Don’t touch your face

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Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.